It was our first winter in Amsterdam. Having arrived in late August, we were in time to see the last lap of the summer. Balmy evenings, leafy pathways and lingering sunsets. As autumn set in, we began revelling in the beauties of the season, the days growing shorter, the changing colours of the leaves and the perceptible drop in temperatures. One of the greatest joys of living in Europe is, to experience the changing seasons. Each season comes bearing the delights of Nature, beautifully packaged in its own unique style. The flowers of spring and the promise of a new beginning; followed by the warmth of the ripening fruits and grass in summer. The falling leaves and the harvest in autumn and then of course the bliss of a crackling fireplace, and hot cocoa in winter!
I have been brought up on images of snowy thatched roof-tops, white wintry landscapes and of Santa Claus to symbolize Christmas-the season of sharing and caring. I was eagerly waiting to experience these images first hand as it were. We soon discovered that Christmas in the Netherlands was very different from the conventional version.Santa Claus is called Sint Klaas; he comes not from the North Pole on a sleigh pulled by reindeer, but comes from Spain in a boat and then rides through the towns on his horse, along with his helper called Zwaart Piet [black Piet]-probably of Moorish origin.
Sint Klaas arrives in November and all the children keep their ‘klompen’ [wooden shoes] stuffed with hay for Sint Klaas’ horse. Piet, goes through the town carrying a big bag full of sweets and ‘peper-noten’ [cinnamon flavoured biscuits] for the children. Legend has it that the naughty ones are put into the bag by Zwaart Piet.
Closer to Christmas, as the rest of the world knows it, comes an enchanting evening called ‘Kaarsjes Avond’- or an evening with candles. The small town of Gouda, which is world famous for its cheese, comes alive.
Thus it was, that one cold wintry evening, we set out for the charming town of Gouda. As we neared the town, well-marked signs on the motorway directed all vehicles to a central parking lot. City Council buses ferried us all to the town centre, or ‘centrum’ as the Dutch call it.
The town square was alive with a festive air- people milling around, carts selling warm spiced wine [gluhwein] and syrupy waffles [stroop waffels], little kiosks with their hand made Christmas decorations, and of course the ever present carts with hot chocolate and mini pancakes [poffertjes]
Standing, or rather towering majestically in the centre of it all was the tallest Christmas tree in the Netherlands- an annual gift that comes all the way from Norway. We joined the people around the tree. A hushed ripple ran through the crowd. The ceremony was about to begin!! I hugged my daughter with excited anticipation.
The proceedings began with a speech by the mayor of Gouda- which, since it was in Dutch, alas, we could not understand. As if on cue, the skies started showering a light dusting of powdery snow. Moments later, all the lights in the town square were switched off. And Then- The whole place was aglow with candles- candles everywhere! literally, thousands of them. Every single window facing the square had glowing candles in them. The entire square was awash with a warm mellow light. No words were needed to feel the magic of that moment. Like a slow surging swell, the voices rose in unison, singing Christmas carols. The language was foreign, but the timeless melodies were not.
As the familiar tunes filled the air, we stood entranced, mesmerized. Our first Christmas in the Netherlands was evocatively enshrined in our mind with the soulful “Silent Night Holy Night”
The candles left us glowing from within with a feeling of serene happiness long after we drove out of Gouda. It was truly a Kaarsjes Avond for us.
